thrifted - not fixed!
Why second-hand clothing is not really an option
by Neele Wette
We all know the feeling: walking out of a second-hand store with a great new find, feeling good about making an eco-friendly choice. But have you ever asked yourself how sustainable thrift shopping really is?
The second-hand market is booming like never before. Stores are packed with clothes, and people are getting creative with styling vintage pieces in unique ways. It´s not anymore an option for people who can´t afford buying new pieces, it has become a trend for everyone. But wasn’t our original goal to reduce our overall consumption and buy less? How can a store overflowing with used clothes be the solution?
The fashion industry is dominated by fast-changing trends. More and more people are becoming aware of the negative environmental impact of fast fashion. But just a few of them are choosing to actually consume less. Instead, they're buying the same amount of clothes – just second-hand.
It's true that second-hand clothing is better for the environment than buying new, but in most cases, it still comes from the fast fashion industry. And because vintage shopping has become such a trend, these garments are now shipped around the world by boat or even by air. This adds to global emissions and environmental stress.
Moreover, the massive overproduction of fast fashion has led to enormous surpluses. What we see in thrift stores is only a small, carefully selected fraction of all the clothing that exists. The rest ends up incinerated or discarded. Clothes that aren't sold or worn often end up in landfills of already very poor countries. Our textile waste is simply being moved out of sight, not truly eliminated.
Many large fashion companies have recognized the popularity of vintage clothing and have capitalized on the trend by producing new garments designed to look vintage. These items often mimic the cuts, colours, and fabrics of older styles, but are mass-produced under the same conditions as typical fast fashion. Rather than spending hours browsing through racks at various thrift stores, it is easier to return to a familiar fashion retailer. There, it’s guaranteed to find items that fit current trends and personal preferences, all in one place and in standard sizes. While the aesthetic may be vintage, the production is not. These “vintage-style” pieces are still part of the same unsustainable system of overproduction and environmental harm.
One common reason people shy away from second-hand clothing is the belief that it’s unhygienic or unclean. But from a health perspective, the opposite is often true. Once properly washed, second-hand garments are actually gentler on your skin than brand-new ones. That’s because they’ve already been washed multiple times, which helps to wash out the majority of harmful chemicals, dyes, and residues commonly found in freshly manufactured clothing. In many cases, second-hand clothing can be the healthier choice.
Buying second-hand is certainly a better choice than purchasing brand-new fast fashion. It helps extend the life of existing garments and reduces waste and resource consumption. However, it’s important to remember that second-hand pieces often still come from the same fast fashion cycle. Ultimately, true sustainability isn’t just about what we buy, it´s also about how much, and why. Consuming less, shopping mindfully, and valuing the clothes we already own are the most powerful steps we can take toward a more conscious and responsible wardrobe. As long as big corporations and politicians aren’t truly interested in making a change, it’s up to us to act responsibly and make fair choices.